Cutting-Edge Heads: Three Basic Types of Broadheads

When it comes down to the moment of truth, a bowhunter's success or failure depends on the performance of that little quarter-ounce tip on the end of his arrow.

Broadheads remain the subject of scrutiny and innovation as manufacturers strive to develop heads that fly straighter, penetrate deeper, and hold together better to get the job done most efficiently.

The jury's still out on what is the superior type of broadhead. Actually, different heads offer different features desirable under different conditions. In most bowhunting situations, any head with sharp, sturdy blades that flies straight will work quite effectively. Yet, most bowhunters have strong opinions on which type of head they prefer.

Broadhead Types

Most broadheads can be divided into three basic categories: traditional sharp-to-the-tip, fixed-blade style; multiple, replaceable-blade style; and mechanical style. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.

I guess I'm in a minority in that I use all the different types of heads for bowhunting each year. I've taken wild boar in Texas with a traditional-style hand-sharpened Zwickey Eskimo that hasn't really changed in over 50 years. On the windswept tundra of Quebec, I downed a caribou bull with a Rocket Steelhead mechanical head. And I've bagged Midwestern deer with the popular replaceable-blade Thunderhead 125 and Muzzy 100. My gear swapping isn't on a whim I choose everything to take on a particular hunt for a reason, and I chose each of those broadheads because I believe they were best for the application. Let's take a look at the various functions and features of each type and try to determine what's best where.

Traditional Heads

I do about half my bowhunting with stick bows longbows and recurves. With traditional bows I always use traditional heads, not just because they seem to match so well, but because they work best. The two-blade traditional style offers the least resistance so it will theoretically provide the greatest penetration in soft animal tissue from a lower-energy stick bow.

I've proven this true in penetration tests as well as in the field. I vividly remember stalking a 400-plus-pound Ontario black bear to 25 yards, drawing my bow, and praying for a good shot because I knew this huge bear was about to be upset with me. I was relieved to see my Magnus-tipped shaft zip through his ribs like he was so much butter and go glistening off into the sunset. The bear jumped, looked around for his nemesis for a few seconds, then toppled.

Along with Magnus and Zwickey, I've used the Bear Razorhead, the Snuffer, the G5 Montec and a few other traditional-type heads. My style is to use them only with traditional gear and to only use the two-blade (not 3-blades or two-blades with bleeders), in keeping with my findings on penetration, complete penetration with an exit wound being key. (The only exception to this is once when I employed a Montec with a compound on a hog hunt. After some trouble with endless blood trails, I let one have it in the left temple; he was an instant pile of pork chops and the Montec was unscathed after entering and exiting the skull.)

The extra penetration potential of two-blade traditional heads is sometimes important, especially on tougher-skinned or larger animals, or when arrow energy is marginal. But most bowhunting is with high-speed compounds on deer-sized game where the extra penetration is unnecessary. Penetration into the ground after a pass-through is wasted energy. In those cases, a bigger advantage may be had in using heads with more and bigger blades that utilize the excess energy available to cut a bigger wound channel.

Replaceable-Blade Heads

I consider replaceable-blade heads a good compromise for most types of bowhunting. The additional cutting surface of 3- and 4-blade heads may aid your efforts to bring down the game, especially on marginal hits. The replaceable-blade feature also helps you keep broadheads razor-sharp. They are generally stouter than mechanicals and most have hard, sharp tips that deal with bone better than most of the other types.

If you are leaning toward heads with blade inserts, my recommendations are to use heads with thicker, stronger blades with a positive lock-down system to avoid blade loss or breakage (I have some real horror stories from my younger days of cheapie heads going to pieces on impact). Go for heads with super-hard steel tips such as Thunderheads and Muzzys softer tips will mash down on contact with bone and absorb a huge amount of penetration energy. Also, spin-test each head. You will find some that wobble. I seem to get better accuracy with 3-blade heads compared to four.

Mechanical Heads

Mechanical, otherwise known as retractable or expandable heads, have blades that are closed in flight and open upon striking the target. While the process of opening consumes energy and decreases penetration, their aerodynamics generally provide the greatest accuracy, especially with improperly tuned bow/arrow setups. An accurate shot with moderate penetration is always better than an inaccurate shot with more penetration. Some early mechanical heads garnered a reputation as being unreliable, but recent models have proven themselves.

I've always considered myself open-minded so I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I had judged mechanical heads before ever trying them. I refused to use them. Then I and a friend decided to do a little test. We gathered all the popular mechanicals then on the market, set up a penetration medium we thought resembled a deer's chest, and shot a popular 3-blade replaceable into it as a standard for penetration measurement. Then we shot the mechanicals.

I was astounded to find two of the mechanicals significantly out penetrated the fixed-blade head, and several others were very close. More so, in accuracy tests, some of them repeatedly shot tighter groups than field points! That year I took mechanicals hunting and immediately started stacking up critters.

I always use mechanicals when I expect blowing winds, longer shots, and medium-sized game.

Best Heads?

What's the best style of broadhead, and why?

My belief is that there is no such thing, though some designs may be better for certain archers or in certain situations.

The most crucial factors are that blades must be razor sharp; the head must facilitate accurate arrow flight, and it must achieve complete penetration through the animal's vitals to cause maximum hemorrhage and provide a distinct blood trail.