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Exploring Ireland's Lough Corrib
By Sally O'Neal

Lough Corrib (lock cor-EEB) is the largest lake in the Republic of Ireland. If you've visited the city of Galway, you've seen its southern reaches; from there, it stretches north 40 miles to the town of Connemara and the region some call Ireland's Lake District. Indeed, Lough Corrib ("lough" being the Gaelic word for "lake," similar to the Scottish "loch" as in "Loch Ness") is separated from Ireland's second largest lake, Lough Mask, by a mere narrow isthmus of land. Together, the two comprise 108 square miles of some of the most pleasurable boating and fishing waters in the world.


Fifth Century St. Patrick's Church and Graveyard.
Fishing Lough Corrib
From March to September, anglers from throughout Europe come to Lough Corrib to try their hand at bank fishing, wading, trolling, catching from boats, and dry fly fishing for a wide diversity of fresh-water quarry. Trout, perch, and pike are all plentiful. Because Lough Corrib connects to the Atlantic Ocean via the Corrib River at Galway City, it is also home to saltwater eel and salmon, the former originating in the Sargasso Sea and the latter making their way all the way from Nova Scotia.

The Islands Of Lough Corrib
If you want to fish from an island, you'll have plenty of choices on Lough Corrib, as there are 365 islands on the lake -- "one for every day of the year," as the locals like to say. Few of the islands are inhabited today, and all are protected by the Irish government.


Historic Stone of Lugna.
According to local lay historian Patrick Luskin, approximately 10 of the islands are inhabited, with most of those having only one to three homes. The exceptions are Inishmacatreer, home to 15 families, and Inchiquin, home to 11.

Inchagoill Island is no longer inhabited, but is the most visited of the islands due to the presence of some wonderfully preserved and easily accessible monastic ruins. Evidence of the island's religious significance and human inhabitance dates back to the fifth century. It was inhabited by four families when it was purchased in 1852 by Sir Benjamin Guinness as part of the nearby Ashford Castle estate. Over the years, people once inhabiting the islands left due to the hard life of isolation, the vicissitudes of weather, and the difficulty of farming and communications. Today, no development is allowed on these protected islands.

Inchagoill Island's Ruins
The remnants of two principal Christian structures remain on Inchagoill Island: fifth century St. Patrick's Church and 12th century Church of the Saints. The two are in close proximity to one another, and a very short walk from the boat dock.


Altar of 12th Century Church of the Saints.
Only a rough stone rectangle remains of the earlier church. Local legend describes the exile here of St. Patrick in the mid-fifth century. Pagan druids still ruled the religious lives of the people in this region and Patrick's efforts to spread the news of Christianity were not appreciated. In his forced banishment to this island, he is said to have built this church, where an annual mass is still conducted today.

Perhaps more significant than the remains of the church building is the small stone monolith situated at the edge of the adjacent graveyard. The so-called Stone of Lugna is said to bear the second-oldest Christian inscription in all of Europe (the oldest being in the catacombs of Rome), giving this site special archaeological significance. The stone's inscription remains startlingly legible (particularly if you can read Old Gaelic) despite the passage of nearly 1,600 years: "Lia Limanian Macc Lmenueh," or "The Standing Stone of Lugna, Son of Limanin." It is widely believed the Limanin was the sister of St. Patrick, and it is known that St. Patrick's nephew was also his navigator. Therefore the stone's inscription lends credence to the exiled saint and navigator nephew theory.


Entry arch with 10 saints of Lough Corrib.
The later church is attributed to the Augustinian Monks of Cong (the village near Ashford Castle) and dates to 1180 A.D. Its altar remains intact, a Celtic-style cross is visible engraved in the wall, and even a stone well for holy water remains just inside the entry portal. The faces of the 10 saints of Lough Corrib are still discernable above the Romanesque entry arch.

A convenient way to reach Inchagoill Island is via the Isle of Innisfree sightseeing boat that docks just outside the gates of Ashford Castle. Captain Luskin and his crew provide an informative and economical tour of the lake and island.

Sally O'Neal has written weekly for sportsmansguide.com since 2000. She wishes to thank Patrick Luskin, author of "A Voyage of Discovery: The History of Ashford Castle and Lough Corrib" and skipper of the good ship "Isle of Innisfree," for his sizeable contributions to the facts and folklore herein.

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