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Visting Ireland: Dysert O'Dea: Archaeological Treasure
In County Clare

By Sally O'Neal

A mere 11 kilometers (less than 7 miles) north of the west Ireland crossroads community of Ennis lies a little slice of history that's well worth several hours' exploration. Sites of historic and archaeological significance aren't scarce in Ireland, but the castle, church, grounds, and outbuildings of the Dysert O'Dea complex are a worthy combination of natural beauty, manmade history, and boot-strapped conservation efforts. The sprawling acreage can be explored by car, but is best explored on foot and makes a great afternoon's stroll.

Single tower of Dysert O'Dea Castle.

The O'Dea/
O'Day Castle
The Dysert O'Dea complex can be reached by following signs from northern Ennis. As you make your approach, the main castle building -- essentially, a single tower -- is the first building you encounter, and a good place to start and to leave your vehicle if you plan to explore the complex on foot. Known as Dysert Castle, this structure was built in 1480 by Diarmuid O'Dea. It was the home and fortress for the greater O'Dea family for the next two centuries.

The restoration includes 10 rooms on four floors, several restored in themes that reflect one of the many historical periods that have passed in the castle's history. The main floor houses a humble, but imminently hospitable tea room where you may purchase inexpensive tickets to tour the castle. The tour includes a homespun, but informative audiovisual presentation on the history and archeology of the castle and grounds and surrounding area as well as museum-quality artifacts spanning the half millennium that the castle has stood upon this site.

One of many restored interior rooms of the castle.

Archaeological Trails
Much of the charm and power of the site is found outside of the castle, on the sprawling nearby grounds. A 300 meters' (less than a quarter mile) walk will take you through a bucolic field immediately behind the castle, featuring a high cross, and to the ruins of a Romanesque church/monastery. Those who choose to continue along the full 4- to 5 kilometer trail (some 2.5- to 3 miles) will see a variety of historic monuments and buildings, 25 original field monuments in all, dating from the Bronze Age, around 1000 BC, to the mid-19th Century, around 1850 AD. Sites include another church, dwellings in various states of ruin, schools, holy wells, and other artifacts of the ages. While the castle interior is open seasonally, the trail is open all year.

Pastoral scene with Holy Cross between Castle and Church.

The High Cross
Just behind the castle, in the middle of a pasture containing some 12- to 25 head of relatively phlegmatic cattle, stands a high cross. While the cross you see today is a reconstruction, it is faithful to the original cross installed here in the 12th Century. It depicts Christ with outstretched arms. Below the arms of Christ is a depiction of a bishop assumed to be St. Tola.

Dysert O'Dea's Monastery
One of the most accessible and impressive sites on the property is the Dysert O'Dea monastery/church, located just across the field where the high cross stands. A stone stile allows you to climb the surrounding low wall with ease.

Interior of church ruins.

The roofless, but otherwise well preserved/reconstructed church was originally built as a monastery known as Disert-Tola, the "quiet place (or "desert") of St. Tola." Pre-dating most of the surrounding 12th-century buildings, the original monastic structure dates to the 8th century.

One of the best-preserved and interesting features of the church is the doorway. Carved in the 12th-century Romanesque style, its rounded arches are decorated in a style typical of the period, and are among the best preserved in the country.

History And Restoration
The castle, grounds, and outbuildings you see today at the Dysert O'Dea Archaeological Centre are a product of careful restoration by a descendant of the original family who lived here. In 1970, what remained of the original castle and outlying properties was purchased by John O'Day, an American who descended from the O'Dea clan. He helped found the Dysert O'Dea Development Association and, in 1986, the association began work on restoration of the castle and grounds. The small fee charged for admission (4 Euros in 2009, that's just under $6 U.S. Funds) helps maintain the site.

Sally O'Neal, an Irish lass by heritage, writes her "Trailside" column weekly for sportsmansguide.com. She visited western Ireland and the Dysert O'Dea complex in May of 2009.

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